Human ingenuity has contrived to enhance the natural beauty of Sydney by judicious juxtapositioning: harbour bridge, opera house, skyscrapers, ferries, sailboats, even helicopters buzzing across the sky. But in comparison with Cape Town, one important ingredient is missing: mountains. At Uluru/Ayers Rock, the red earth is parched and the rocks feel ancient. There remains a deep sense of spirituality in the places revered by the Aboriginals who constitute the longest continuous civilization on earth but whose absence from most of those places now is palpable. Eucalypts, of which there are over 800 species, are the defining feature of the Australian landscape where they properly belong.